Last week, Justin and I felt it was high time for another overnight trip in a random city, so after combing through a few Korean websites we chose Samcheok, a small coastal city in Gangwan-do, the northeastern most province in South Korea. Samcheok is known for mountains, caves, cliffs, and raw seafood. We were fortunate enough to see 3 out of 4.
The entirety of Gangwan Province is known as the wild and untamed part of the country, where the mountains jump up, snowfall is immense, and cities are fewer and farther between. I liken it somewhat to North Carolina, except throw the beach up against the mountains and toss in a California-esque coastline. It’s also where the country’s most famous mountain, Seoraksan (if you remember the pictures from last fall) is located. It’s wild, no doubt. And it’s a lot of fun.
Both Justin and I rushed out of school Friday, met at the Express Bus Terminal in Seoul and caught the 6:40pm bus to Samcheok. Gangwan-do always promises adventure, but it’s quite a trip to get there. 4 hours later, we arrived at the terminal, quickly got drenched in rain, and picked a random motel. That’s really one of the (many) great things about traveling in Korea, the cheap (AKA “love”) motels are ubiquitous. We crashed for the night, got up the next day to gray skies and light but incessant rain that continued for the whole trip. It gave everything a mysterious air, clouds drifting through the mountains and all, so it turned out to be a good thing. We readied our umbrellas and took off to our first destination.
Jukseoru is an old pavilion in Samcheok that overlooks Oshipcheon Stream. Built in 1275, it was one of the most famous seats in the East for political and philosophical discussion. The hanging signs were written by famous scholars through history. It was rebuilt in 1403, but hasn’t been repaired since. This place felt much more real than a lot of other historical sites, just because of that fact. So many other places, palaces and temples for example, are repaired to look almost new. They feel that way too. Jukseoru felt very alive, like it was still being used by scholars and statesmen.
Afterwards, we wandered through the town and down to a Buddhist temple, where, after taking a few pictures, we were beckoned in by a middle-aged Korean woman. She showed us the main hall, and with her little English and our little Korean we almost understood some of what she said. We thought were we done, but then a Halmoni (Korean Grandmother) came out and beckoned us to the other hall. We walked in and sitting there waiting for us was a hot bowl of noodles! “Two strange looking foreigners outside? I’ll make lunch!” So we sat with three Korean women eating, laughing at each other, and listening to the rain outside. Afterwards we got some recommendations on the town (sort of) and a Buddhist bracelet to wear. We left reluctantly, amazed and humbled (as always) at the kindness of Korean people.
Our next stop was Hwanseongul, one of the largest caves in Korea. We took a bus about 40 minutes into the high mountains, deep green, mist-capped and solemn. The hike up to the cave felt like walking through a dream. Light rain, surrounded by forest and clouds and a wild river, walking deeper into the valley, up and up towards who knows what mysterious place. We made it to the cave and it was far more spectacular than I imagined. A huge river ran through the middle, waterfalls everywhere, multi-colored lights lit up the walls and high ceilings. So many different rooms and sections and it just kept going deeper. It was gigantic; it took an hour and a half for us to make it through the whole thing.
The last ones out of the cave, we walked back down the all but abandoned path to the parking lot and waited a while for the bus. We made it back to Samcheok, found some dinner and crashed for the night.
On Sunday, we woke up early, walked to the bus station, and caught a bus for the railbike. Samcheok has unused sections of railroad that run along the coast that have been outfitted with “railbikes” which are pretty much golf carts on rails.
Despite getting soaked the whole time, we rolled down the tracks and enjoyed the scenery. A few tunnels were decorated in light and neon underwater scenes that made for a cool show.
At the end of the line, we searched for a bus or taxi to our last destination, Haesindang Park. With nothing available, the transportation director at the railbike station decided to drive us in his car. Once more humbled by Korean kindness, we thanked him profusely and battled the wind to make it out to the cliffs of Haesindang.
Haesindang Park is also known as “Penis Park”. Seems an appropriate nickname considering the place is filled with giant statues of penises. Why? Legend has it that a young couple in love (both virgins) were out fishing together in a small boat near the cliffs. The man dropped off the young maid on some rocks just offshore to collect seaweed when a terrible storm suddenly hit without warning. The man couldn’t get out to save the girl and she was torn from the rock by a huge wave and pulled into the sea, dying a virgin. The next day when the weather cleared, the men went out to fish but didn’t catch anything. They thought the ghost of the virgin girl was angry. That night, they carved wooden penises and threw them into the ocean. The ghost of the maid seemed to like this, as the next day they caught tons of fish. Thus Haesindang Park was erected to honor the maid and give luck to the local fishermen.
We made our way out to the oceanside, which was rocky and epic and beautiful, in a storm that must have resembled the one that took the life of the maid. We snapped a few pictures, walked down to see the water, and made our way back, drenched and tired. We caught a bus back to Samcheok, then to Seoul, then made it home just before bedtime.
All in all, another great summertime trip. Korea always surprises me, whether in natural beauty or kindness or giant penises. I think it will for a long time to come.
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